12 Steps Down

Subterranean dive bars have a special place in my heart and, as you may have guessed from its name, 12 Steps Down is Philadelphia’s contribution to that grand tradition. Located, you guessed it, exactly 12 steps down from street level, 12 Steps Down occupies a basement space in the city’s Bella Vista neighborhood. Also in keeping with the allure of an underground dive bar, it is difficult to know exactly what to expect on a first-time visit and therein lies some of the bar’s charm.

Opened in 2002 by owner Danielle Renzulli, what looks like a simple staircase outside leads to a door that unfolds into a surprisingly cavernous space. Danielle and brother Fred Reznulli bartended at the space’s previous tenant, a bar named Kathleen’s, before seizing the opportunity to purchase the space when its then-owner decided to exit the industry. Though legal disputes became public between Danielle, Fred and their mother (the bar’s bookkeeper) in subsequent years, current press coverage refers to Danielle as the bar’s sale owner.

Dive bar legend has it that the name was chosen out of a suggestion box installed when the Reznulli family took over the space. The moniker ‘12 Steps Down’ was selected due to its dual meaning referring to both the number of steps to get to the bar’s front door as well as a veiled reference to 12-step programs designed to support those suffering from alcoholism. This current incarnation of the space is just the latest in a long lineage of bars that have operated here well before both 12 Steps Down and Kathleen’s.

The sign outside is not subtle and features an illuminated arrow that points to the 12 Steps Down front door. The logo associated with the bar features a number of black steps (you can guess how many) set against a white background. Both drinks and food are advertised on the bar’s awning and indeed the kitchen stays open late (1 AM), a vitally-important attribute for those weary about getting back up the 12 stairs outside the bar’s front door.

Proximity to the 9th Street Italian Market has afforded 12 Steps Down a unique perspective on food as the scratch kitchen here is said to source most of its ingredients from the nearby, open-air market, the nation’s oldest such district. Menu items stretch beyond typical dive bar fare into slightly more adventurous options like gochujang chicken wings, kimchi beef tacos and even a smoky ketchup that pairs with the bar’s fries.

The bottled beer selection is notoriously deep with as many as 50 options available at any given time. These beers are produced from a rectangular bar set in the center of the 12 Steps Down space, the rest of the bar filled in with low tables and chairs and a lone pool table. Of course, because of its underground location, the 12 Steps Down walls include exactly zero windows, meaning every hour of the day features a string light-illuminated, divey ambiance. Be warned, well-attended weekend evenings and event nights draw crowds that can turn the subterranean space a bit warm.